Credit chef Nick Curtola, whose understated cooking kept quietly turning up the volume. Back in 2015, there was buzz but also a bit of a head-scratch: LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy opening a wine bar?Ī Michelin star, a pandemic, and several rounds of natural-wine hype later, 4H is thriving, stronger than ever. Hard to believe it’s coming up on eight years that this Williamsburg staple has been with us. Jon Bonné is Resy’s managing editor and author of the forthcoming book, “The New French Wine.” Follow him on Instagram and Twitter. If French wine feels like old news, think again. This roster is, needless to say, a work in progress, because lest you think we’re at Peak France, rest assured more Gallic haunts are coming. But our interest here was more specific: restaurants that capitalize on that diversity, not to impress but to enjoy. Of course, France remains an icon of prestige, hence there’s no shortage of places where drinkers of unlimited means can be dazzled - this is New York, after all. Where to drink it all in? We sifted through wine lists across the city to come up with 26 spots that exude the glorious diversity of French wine today, everything from skin-contact Alsatian gewurztraminer to unsulfured Bordeaux to infused cinsault from the Languedoc. ![]() And French wines now accompany all manner of cuisines (see: Semma, Atoboy, Pinch Chinese). Today you can locate France-inspired wine bars ( Place des Fêtes, Le Dive) whose wine interests wander to other corners. But we’re talking about a much broader spectrum.Īmong other things, that means Francophile food and French wine don’t necessarily show up in the same places these days. Its postmodern roster is as progressive and offbeat as any in the world, which is why it’s so often matched to today’s most daring, inventive cooking. The country’s wine industry has transformed remarkably in the past two decades. Sort of: If France once leaned on its pedigree, we’re not talking about the stodgy French wines of the past. But with French cuisine currently enjoying a renaissance, New York has circled back to its wine roots. (Although if breakfast Bordeaux returns as the next Dimes Square trendlet, you heard it here first.) Similarly, if France once largely represented the beginning and end of classy wine, other regions have made important inroads: Italy in the early 2000s, driven by that cuisine’s drive to upsell itself more recently, there’s the contemporary cohort of Californian wine and the same from Spain. Heck, in the mid-19th century, the Metropolitan Hotel offered the 1841 Château Margaux as “breakfast wine.”įrench was also the city’s default haute cuisine, literally, for most of the 20th century - see: Lutèce, La Caravelle, etc. It’s too much to say that New York was built on French wine, but as happens with mercantile cities, we have been one of the great consumers of France’s bounty since the days of the Revolution. ![]() And we tell you where you should go to drink French wine, too. We’ve compiled a list of French restaurants for every occasion. We’ve got a soft spot for a classic Midtown bistro. We unpack why New York has always been obsessed with them, and we ruminate on the timeless joy they bring. ![]() This week on Resy we’re exploring the many facets of French restaurants in New York.
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